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  • Next up we have a crack near the sink. I think it was a normal hairline crack that became exposed when we cut out the sink…just a bit of bad luck, really. Here it is from the side… - Source: Internet
  • A few weeks ago I got an e-mail from a reader asking me to write a post about how our butcher block countertops are holding up. I have to admit, I’m a little embarrassed I didn’t think of this myself….of course I should write a follow-up post. My main concern when we choose them was how they would hold up over time and I’m sure many of you are wondering the same thing. So here it is, a completely honest update on our wood counters. - Source: Internet
  • A. If your cabinets have open tops: Install blocking to create a surface that you can attach your butcher block countertop to. Use a quality grade of 3/4" plywood or 1x stock boards to do this. Install the blocking flush with your cabinet tops by first drilling pilot holes at an angle through the blocking and then screwing the blocking to your cabinets making sure to use properly sized screws so that you don’t screw all the way through your cabinet wall. - Source: Internet
  • If you are going to replace your sink with a new one, now is the time to do it, just make sure you measure correctly so it fits in the space you have. We did not measure correctly (or rather, I did not measure correctly) and I had to rebuild some lower cabinet parts so I could make room for an additional 6 inches of sink. I had my heart set on a farmhouse style apron-front sink and at only $300, Ikea’s was the best value for our budget, so I was determined to make it work. Regardless of the brand of apron-front sink you choose, they come with clear instructions on the cut-out dimensions for the counters, in order to fit the apron-front. - Source: Internet
  • Put sink into place and secure with brackets below (provided with Ikea sink). Reattach all the plumbing and if you have a new faucet to install, do that at the same time. Make sure to use a water-based kitchen and bath waterproof adhesive caulk before laying down the sink. DO NOT use the oil-based silicone because the mineral spirits clean-up will remove the Waterlox top-coat. - Source: Internet
  • Request a butcher block with sink quote below. Additional drawings or specifications can be emailed to glumber@glumber.com. - Source: Internet
  • **No glues, construction adhesives, epoxies, or similar should be used at any time when installing butcher block countertops. These adhesives will inhibit hardwood’s natural movement and will create tension in the top and / or what it is adhered to. This will lead to warping or cracking in your top or damage to your cabinet’s frames or whatever it is adhered to. - Source: Internet
  • Two years ago, in September 2011, I wrote a post about how we installed our own butcher block countertops. We had looked at a lot of countertops options and ended up choosing butcher block, mainly because we liked the price and the look of wood. Here they are right after installing and sealing… - Source: Internet
  • So that’s the bad news. The good news is that everything can be fixed by sanding down and resealing the counter. And besides those three flaws the counter still looks great, even around the sink. - Source: Internet
  • For an apron-front sink, there will need to be a small notch cut out of the corner of the pieces of butcher block that butt against the sink. Use sink instructions or measure the width and length of the notch and mark the corner of each corresponding segment. Use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth on the hardwood setting to cut the notch out. Go slow to get the straightest cut. - Source: Internet
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